A few questions - Haven Builders/Rozinante/Alpha II Forum

HavenBuilders Forum

Sponsored By

Visit the HB Power Tool Store

In order to access the main site please visit www.havenbuilders.com and log in. If you have not yet joined, you may do so at www.havenbuilders.com. Membership stands at 50 members as of January 6, 2007. Use of this Forum will continue to be absolutely free to all, members as well as non members. All that is necessary is to register:

Return to Haven Builders Web Site		Return to Rozinante Web Site
Return to Alpha II Web Site

Click here to REGISTER, it's easy!

CLICK HERE to see what's new on the Haven 12 1/2 Site

IMPORTANT! Builders and owners please submit photos of completed boats, as well as works in progress. Email to: info@havenbuilders.com or mail to 1747 Littlestone Rd.; Grosse Pointe Woods, MI, 48236.

Please note that advertisements and solicitations are inappropriate on this BB.

Haven Builders/Rozinante/Alpha II Forum

Haven Forum

A few questions

profile | register | preferences | faq | search

UBBFriend: Email This Page to Someone!

next newest topic | next oldest topic

Author	Topic: A few questions
Brent Cummings Builder Posts: 65 Registered: Dec 2004	posted 09-29-2006 11:33 AM Summer is over so back to work on the boat. Some questions for the group: 1) I'm planning on canvas looking decks and am wondering peoples experiences with Dynel vs. canvas over epoxy. Kind of ruled out bedding canvas in white lead so epoxy it will be I guess. If I'm using epoxy is non marine grade plywood ok? 2.) Trying to pick up turnbuckles off ebay. What size am I looking for? 3.) I know at least one person who covered the inside of the sheerclamps with another board to cover up the rivets. Did others do this. I used the English style conical roves so I'll either have to do the same thing or cut relief holes in the coaming board. Guess thats it for now. IP: Logged
Tom Builder Posts: 262 Registered: Jul 2002	posted 09-30-2006 07:15 PM Personally, I wouldn't economize by using non-marine plywood. The deck has some bend and marine grade assures that here are no voids in the plys that could cause trouble when bending. Also, assures good bonding of the plies. I cut relief holes in the coamings for the roves. The turnbuckles are about 8" long. I'll measure them asap and let you know. IP: Logged
Jack Builder Posts: 141 Registered: Jan 2001	posted 09-30-2006 09:33 PM Hi Brent: On my Haven I used dynel and System Three Clear Coat; both worked extremely well except that dynel is not available in wide widths. I used 55" material on rear deck and om the bow I found the 55" not enough to go all the way across so I did it in two parts a covering board down the middle to hide the seam. The dynel makes a nice canvas like appearance and is so much easier to achieve than canvas and white lead. I experimented with stretching canvas and wetting it out etc and its a pain in the neck. In both cases I installed the dynel on marine plywood backing and painted it with Kirby's Classic cream. I hope to have some photos soon on the haven site. In relation to the coaming;perhaps you are referring to me as I added a piece of Doug fir over my sheer clamps to hide the rivets and also I picked up about 1/2" of extra covering board space that way. The plans show the coamings only covering part of the sheer clamp with the rivets exposed; that I didn't like so this way I used a little wider coaming and made its bottom even with the bottom of the sheer plank. A much cleaner installation; though its not like the original.Oh well! In relation to the turnbuckles I bought the ones from Bristol Bronze and their size is about 5" center portion, 2 1/2" threaded inserts, 3" socket for inserting steel cable, and 2" fastener that attaches to chainplate. Thus about 10" to 15" depending on your needs. Hope this helps. Jack IP: Logged
Brent Cummings Builder Posts: 65 Registered: Dec 2004	posted 10-01-2006 06:37 AM Thanks guys. The 55" Dynel is what has me thinking. Jack, how does the covering board look on the deck? I was hoping to avoid it if at all possible. In the book they seem to use canvas as if it were dynel in that they lay it in epoxy. That would make its application as easy as dynel (I think). I wonder if you can make a neat enough joint with the dynel to not need a covering board? Maybe I will experiment since I already have the Dynel. IP: Logged
Jack Builder Posts: 141 Registered: Jan 2001	posted 10-01-2006 10:34 PM Personally I like the look of the covering board as it breaks up the deck area and makes it little more interesting to me. Those true to the original look probaably will find this heresy. But then i also had some problems with the front of the coamings so I had to make some rather drastic changes there also. So whats one other change? My pictures will point this out if i can get them submitted. As far as canvas and epoxy go I never tried that approach so I don't know for sure except that canvas is so thick and tough to handle compared to dynel. I think it might be hard to saturate it with epoxy too and get the desired look.??? Dynel seems to be quite tough to cut and before I screwed up the coamings I thought I might try the joint idea at least on the little area between the coaming and the mast; I tried to overlay the two pieces of dynel and make a nice cut thru both and thren remove the excess parts and join the two edges. My knives were not sharp enough, the wet dynel wanted to slip and slide even though I had a staight edge holding them down and I just wasn't sucessful. Maybe with practice it could be done easily. I've read that others had no problem so maybe that's the way to go. Anyway I'm sure you'll do OK no matter which way you go.. Jack IP: Logged
Bristol Bronze Builder Posts: 87 Registered: Mar 2002	posted 10-04-2006 06:48 AM Dear Brent, Be very careful of any turnbuckles that you might find on E=Bay. For quite a few years now most of the turnbuckles on the market have been made in Third World nations. Usually they are called "Bronze" but are really brass. In addition, to save costs in manufacturing they have changed the design so that both turnbuckle screws and the clevis jaws at the ends are all made from the same casting. When threaded this causes a weak spot at the place where the threads end and the clevis jaws begin. I recommend the use of the traditional Herreshoff turnbuckles on the Haven. They are beautiful, work well and last forever. I am still using the original Herreshoff turnbuckles on my boat. She was launched on 23 Sept. 1920 at Herreshoff Mfg. Co. Roger W. Bristol Bronze 401-625-5224 IP: Logged
Brent Cummings Builder Posts: 65 Registered: Dec 2004	posted 10-05-2006 08:38 AM Thanks Roger. I have been just keeping an eye on reclaimed bronze parts only. For example someone has had various components from an H28 recently. I thought the turnbuckles from the aft mast might be close. Every so often I see parts from other boats as well. Cleats are easy to come by and the occasional bronze block. IP: Logged
Bristol Bronze Builder Posts: 87 Registered: Mar 2002	posted 10-08-2006 07:37 AM Dear Brent, Many of the H-28s were build in Sooutheast Asia. Their fittings were cast in China. Although called "Bronze" they were really brass made from a high zinc, high lead content brass scrap. This holds true of many of the blocks as well. The result is that these fittings do not last all that long compared to real Bronze and in some cases can prove dangerous if they break under load. Roger W. Bristol Bronze 401-625-5224 IP: Logged

All times are ET (US)	next newest topic \| next oldest topic
Administrative Options: Close Topic \| Archive/Move \| Delete Topic
	Hop to:

Contact Us | Haven Builders Web Site

Ultimate Bulletin Board 5.47a

BR>