Posts: 14
Registered: Aug 2005

posted 08-15-2006 10:37 PM               

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My planking has been steamed and cupped around the curve of the bilge and other areas instead of backing out. Although I have used roves and rivets in 16 of the frames by removeing part of the moulds in the way of the rivets as I planked, the system should work as well useing screws. Make cupping blocks for each frame the width of the plank at that frame.Insert the plank in a sock of plastic fluming, like used on a roof down pipe and seal the end. I then insert a half inch hose from my steamer. the sock blows up like a sausage . 40 minutes for the huon pine plank is enough. attach the plank with a clamp and cupping block at each frame (rapidly as you can ) and leave over night to cool. The plank looks like it grew there after fastening. very little fairing to do , no backing out, and the inside fits beautiffuly against the frames. There is very little bevelling to do as an added bonus and you start with a finished plank plus say 1/16 inch to spare. A 2000 watt wall paper remover is more than sufficient to steam a plank.

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posted 08-17-2006 07:57 AM               

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Barry, how about some photos of this method?

Thanks,

Tom

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posted 08-17-2006 04:13 PM               

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O.K. Tom. I will Photograph the procedure on plank nr 9 which is next and Post them in.

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posted 09-05-2006 08:42 PM               

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As promised, Barry has submitted a whole series of photos documenting his planking method:

More photos at: http://www.testrong.com/havmem/barryfred/barfred1.html

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posted 09-06-2006 05:48 AM               

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Barry,

This is a great idea and looks pretty easy to implement. I wonder if anyone can foresee any issues with this technique? I haven't seen this method mentioned in any of the boat building books so am being cautious before trying it.

JP

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posted 09-06-2006 04:36 PM               

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John, William Garden used the process in building TOM CAT. Wooden boat has the book. It is described in detail. Michael Varney also describes how to in Complete Ametuer Boatbuilder, although not in detail as it is an accepted way in England and Australia. I too was doubtful untill I tried a test piece. Dont know how your cedar takes to steam?? cheers Barry

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posted 09-06-2006 04:46 PM               

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Thanks. I'll have to get those books. What wood are you using for planking?

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posted 09-07-2006 03:31 PM               

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The planking is Huon Pine from a very old tree that only grows in Tasmania. Timbers, keel , stem are Celery Top ,also a Tasmanian timber not quite as hard as oak but a little stronger than long leaf pine. The reason for rivets instead of screws is the holding power of the screws in celery top is not quite as good as oak. The transom is mahogony and the floors are white oak.

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