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Posts: 262 Further down it says: ..."Remember that the designed sheerline as shown on the drawings and as indicated by the cross spalls is the height of the sheer at the outside corner of the plank, not the inside one. Thus, because of the hull's flare, extra wood - often called ""bevelling wood"" - will have to be figured into the shaping and positioning of the sheerstrakes." I think I can visualize what is being said here, but I'm very uncertain as to how to proceed with measuring for and cutting the sheerstrakes from the (VERY EXPENSIVE) mahogany stock. Any help will be very much appreciated! [This message has been edited by Tom (edited 09-29-2004).] IP: Logged Posts: 141 IP: Logged Posts: 132 IP: Logged Posts: 262 IP: Logged Posts: 132 I did not use the power saw method shown in the book. I think that is just a time saving approach. I used a good sharp round bottom plane to cut the swell in. It took more elbow grease and time I suppose, but it was pleasurable work. I made a gauge in the shape of the swell picked up from the plans and used that to check on my progress. Remember, you are in Wonderland where up is down and down is up and if you are not thinking, you can end up with high dollar firewood. IP: Logged Posts: 141 IP: Logged Posts: 262 I made the sheerstrakes out of mahogany, but had to scarf two pieces together to get the length needed. The scarf is about 5 ft. from the bow. I will try steaming the first 4 ft. and hope for the best. The "How To..." book says they didn't steam theirs, but would recommend it. I'll mount one before starting on the other. IP: Logged Posts: 132 Sweeeeeet [This message has been edited by Admin5 (edited 03-19-2006).] IP: Logged All times are ET (US)
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Topic: Need help with sheerstrakes
Tom
Builder
Registered: Jul 2002
posted 09-29-2004 10:54 PM
The "How to" book on page 31 says: ..."The sheerstrakes can enhance this boat, or they can really detract from its appearance if they are not shaped just right."
Jack
Builder
Registered: Jan 2001
posted 10-05-2004 01:27 AM
Tom: I'm just in the middle of adding the sheer clamps and working with the sheer strakes and the beveling wood thereon. I made my sheer strakes just as the plans showed and didn't allow for any extra wood. I'm still working at getting the clamps in place and then there will be more beveling of the clamps to do. So I can't really advise you at this time what would be best. I may have screwred up myself here. Anyway I thought i'd send this and send more later as I figure everything out.. Jack
Dan Nielsen
Builder
Registered: Dec 2001
posted 10-06-2004 01:48 PM
If you look at the cross sections on the construction drawing (which hangs on the wall of my office) you can visualize the amount that needs to be beveled. It is more in the bow and less, almost nil, in the stern. The amount of material is a function of the angle of the top of the sheer with the horizontal plane. You could actually measure this angle off your molds and knowing the thickness of the sheer plank, calculate the extra material needed. (The final angle will not be horizontal, but this will give you enough material) I simply estimated from a few molds. After the boat was flipped I planed the sheer eye sweet.
Tom
Builder
Registered: Jul 2002
posted 10-14-2004 08:26 AM
Thanks Jack and Dan for your input. I now have the sheerplanks cut out, with provision for "bevelling wood." Now on to shaping. The method shown in the "How To..." book looks daunting to me, especially since I am working alone, and don't know how I would balance the long pieces on several passes through the table saw. I looked into having a mill do it, and the price was $475.00! (Making tool, set up, run time, etc.) I will have to do them myself. Any helpful hints?
Dan Nielsen
Builder
Registered: Dec 2001
posted 10-15-2004 09:23 AM
Hi Tom,
Jack
Builder
Registered: Jan 2001
posted 10-16-2004 02:13 AM
Tom: I saw your post on the Wooden Boat Forum regarding the sheer clamps; I have just finished getting mine into place after steaming both ends. I used 1 piece of clear Doug fir for each one.. I think you'd definitely want to avoid having to scarf this as the bending forces are quite large and I just can't imagine a scarfed piece withstanding the bending required. I think there are many sources for long lengths Doug fir; expensive but worth it. This little endeavor has been quite intimidating to start but it all worked out quite well. Jack
Tom
Builder
Registered: Jul 2002
posted 10-16-2004 09:07 AM
I decided to use the table saw method and so far it is going quite well. I have one roughed out on the table saw, and am now finishing the shaping.
Dan Nielsen
Builder
Registered: Dec 2001
posted 10-22-2004 04:07 PM
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